Cosmetic actives: the science behind the effectiveness of skincare products

Cosmetic Actives: The Heart of a Treatment’s Performance

A cosmetic active is a substance, of natural or synthetic origin, selected for its specific action on the skin: hydration, firmness, radiance, anti-aging, soothing... They are what make the difference between a simple nourishing cream and a truly effective treatment.

 

These actives are not chosen at random. They are the result of extensive scientific research conducted by specialized laboratories. These develop molecules or extracts capable of modulating the skin’s biological mechanisms, such as:

• Stimulating collagen;
• Improving microcirculation;
• Strengthening the skin barrier;
• ...

Each active is therefore tested, measured, and validated before being marketed.

Rigorous Testing: Scientific Proof of Effectiveness

Before an active can be incorporated into a cream, it must undergo a series of very strict tests. These studies ensure that the claimed effects are not based on marketing promises but on tangible evidence.

In Vitro Tests

These are studies conducted in the laboratory, outside a living organism, such as in a Petri dish, test tube, or more complex equipment. These studies allow observation of the precise biological effect of the active: for example, its ability to stimulate collagen production, limit cellular oxidation, or strengthen the cohesion of skin cells. These tests constitute the first step of scientific validation.

In Vivo Tests

Once effectiveness is demonstrated in the laboratory, the active is then tested on human volunteers under controlled conditions. These tests measure the real observable effects on the skin: reduction of wrinkles, improvement of body hydration, evening out of skin tone... Results are quantified using precise measuring instruments (cutometer, corneometer...).

 

It is thanks to this rigorous methodology that each laboratory establishes the optimal concentration of the active to achieve reproducible results.

 

The Key Role of Concentration: The Difference Between an Effective Cream and a Marketing Cream

When an active is validated, the laboratory that developed it communicates the recommended concentration, that is, the minimum and maximum percentage to use to guarantee the proven effectiveness during tests.

 

Let’s take a concrete example: if a laboratory indicates that its hyaluronic acid should be used between 0.1% and 0.5% to ensure a visible hydrating and plumping effect, this means that all scientific studies proving this effect were conducted within this concentration range.

 

Below this limit, the active may be present, but it will have no measurable effect. It’s a bit like putting a drop of vitamin C in a liter of water and hoping to boost immunity: the molecule is there, but in too small a quantity to act.

At Grangettes: Transparency and Effectiveness Above All

At Grangettes Switzerland, we have made a clear choice: always use the maximum concentration recommended by the manufacturer of each active.

 

This choice is not trivial. It means that:

• Each active contained in our formulas acts under the same conditions as those of the efficacy tests;

• The effects observed in scientific studies are truly reproducible on our clients’ skin;

• We do not add an active just to “beautify” an ingredient list, but to guarantee a concrete result.

This requirement is what makes the difference between a truly effective cream and a treatment that is simply “well formulated.”

When Marketing Takes Precedence Over Science

Unfortunately, not all brands follow this scientific rigor. There is, in the cosmetics world, a widespread but misleading practice: adding actives in minuscule amounts, just enough to appear on the INCI list (the legal ingredient list), but too little to produce a real effect.

 

Returning to our hyaluronic acid example: if a laboratory recommends a minimum of 0.1% for proven effectiveness, some brands will only include 0.005%, which is twenty times less. This microscopic amount allows them to display “hyaluronic acid” on the packaging, but without the skin actually benefiting from its hydrating properties.

 

This type of formulation relies on the attraction power of the word, not on the product’s performance. The consumer thinks they are buying a cream rich in powerful actives, whereas in reality, it is often just a simple hydrating base with a symbolic trace of a “star” ingredient.

 

Not All Creams Are Equal

During a report broadcast on RTS on October 3, a “study” that in reality was not based on any scientific fact claimed that “anti-aging creams do not work.” Faced with this claim, caution is necessary because it does not take into account the scientific reality of the sector.

 

Indeed, some creams have no visible effect, but that does not mean that the actives themselves are not effective. It simply means that their concentration in the product is not sufficient to reproduce the results observed in the laboratory.

 

Many clinical studies show, on the contrary, that well-dosed formulations offer concrete benefits:

• Visible reduction of wrinkles;
• Improvement of skin texture (action against , coarse skin...);
• Increase in hydration levels...

What makes all the difference is formulation rigor:

1. Respect for recommended percentages;
2. Product stability;
3. Compatibility of actives with each other.

The Grangettes Philosophy: Science, Transparency, and Trust

At Grangettes Switzerland, we deeply believe that cosmetic effectiveness is no accident. Our 100% clean formulas are developed within specialized laboratories that provide us not only with the most effective actives but also precise scientific data to guarantee their effectiveness.

 

We then choose to formulate at the highest dose allowed by these laboratories to offer you products whose results are truly observable.

 

Each Grangettes treatment is therefore the result of a scientific and ethical commitment: never to promise without proof, and always to offer the best of cosmetic research in safe, effective, and transparent formulas.

The Truth About Treatment Effectiveness

Cosmetic actives are not marketing myths. They are the result of decades of scientific research, technological innovations, and rigorous testing. Their effectiveness is demonstrated, measured, and reproducible, provided they are used at the correct dosage.

 

At Grangettes, we have chosen to stand on the side of science. We believe that healthy, radiant skin is not achieved through promises but through honest, precise, and scientifically validated formulas.

 

Because in cosmetics, effectiveness is not a matter of words, but a matter of concentration.